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Champagnes, Holiday 2014

12/16/2014

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House or Cooperative (NM or CM) Champagne
Montaudon Brut, NV, Reims
Charles de Cazanove “Traditions Père et Fils” Brut Rosé, NV,
Jacquesson “Cuvée 786” Brut, NV, Dizy

Grower-Producer (RM) Champagne:
R. Dumont et Fils Brut, NV, Aube
(Available in Magnum (1.5L) and Jeroboam (3L) sizes!)
R. Dumont et Fils, Brut Nature, NV, Aube
Pierre Gimonnet “Blanc de Blanc” Brut NV, Cotes des Blanc, Cuis  
Gaston Chiquet “Cuvée Tradition” Brut NV, Vallee de la Marne, Dizy 
R. Geoffroy “Cuvée Expression” Brut NV, Vallee de la Marve, Cumieres
L. Aubry Fils Brut NV, Montagne de Reims, Reims 
Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée St-Anne” Brut NV, Merfy
A. Margaine “Cuvée Traditionelle” Brut NV, Villers-Marmery
José Michel et Fils Brut, NV, Côtes d’Epernay 
(Available in Demi (half) size)
Ruelle-Pertois Blanc de Blancs Brut, NV, Moussy, Marne
Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” NV, Rilly-la-Montagne 
R. Geoffroy "Cuvee Empreinte” 2006, Cumieres

Club de Viticulteurs “Special Club” Grower Champagne: 
José Michel et Fils, “Special Club”, 2004, Côtes d’Epernay
Pierre Gimonnet “Special Club” Brut 2005, Côte des Blancs, Cuis 
Pierre Gimonnet “Special Club” Brut 2006, Côte des Blancs, Cuis 
Goutorbe “Special Club” Brut 2004, Vallee de la Marne, Aÿ
Hebrart “Special Club” Brut 2009, Mareuil-Sur-Ay


Grand Houses and the Grower Movement

Champagne is unusual in that it generally strives for consistency year to year. The big houses (NM) buy grapes from across the region and hold onto many vintages. They then blend across styles and vintages to try to replicate a “house style” in every bottle. While a house may stick to one general region in Champagne, they rarely express the style of the land as much as their own style.

Recently however, there has been a movement to discover “grower-producer” Champagnes (RM). There are hundreds of small growers across the region. Sometimes just a half hectare family garden. Most of these grapes go into the large house NM, or sometimes into co-op (CM) wines. There are many however, who make their own Champagnes. Think of grower Champagne as like craft beer. While it’s maybe not fair to compare the bigger houses to Budweiser, these are small producers making really incredible stuff that really show the characteristics of their land (and, to be fair, just like in craft beer they are not equally skilled). This year we have a unusually good selection of Grower Champagne, it’s a perfect chance to explore the more unique qualities of this unique region. 


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